And with the temperature today hitting a balmy 47 degrees, work resumed. Yes, I know it don’t look like much progress, but this was three hours of work! The pink shingles are new; the darker ones are original (turned over and disk sanded).
Looks like lovely progress! Yea for Ross!
Baby steps! baby steps! That’s three hours of work you don’t have to do tomorrow. Thanks I feel a little better now. After seeing what dumb nuts did to that bathroom it’s good to see some real work done on an old house.
That’s great progress Ross! Doers the weather in Kansas warm up in March?
A little progress is better than no progress. It’s going to be stunning!
Why are you using tar paper as your underlayment and not an insulated sheet?
What is an insulated sheet?
I guess I used the wrong terminology,
“Exterior wall sheathing strengthens the wall system, provides a nailing base for the siding, and gives a layer of protection against outside elements. Exterior wall sheathing is either structural or non-structural. Structural exterior wall sheathing ties framing studs together, making the walls resistant to twisting and bending. However, most structural exterior wall sheathings lack insulation value. Non-structural exterior wall sheathing works with the building’s envelope to provide added insulation. Non-structural exterior wall sheathing also prevents intrusion of either water or wind and, in some cases, it acts as a radiant barrier. There are several structural and non-structural exterior wall sheathing options available to home and commercial buildings.”
Being on the southern exposure, I would think a thermal barrier would help in the hot summer months.
I am not endorsing a brand, I am just curious as I have to repair the south cedar shingles on my house as I am getting water intrusion through the damaged shingles.
The Cross House originally had rosin paper under the shingles and this, presumably, was to help keep out wind.
Later, tar paper (which is water resistant) become common under shingles and I have been using it for many decades.
The house does have wall sheathing. That is the diagonal boards.
The kind of thermal wall sheathing you are talking about would not be possible on the house as it would increase the thickness of the walls and, thus, the shingles would stick out past all the trim. Yikes!
OK, I see what you are doing then.
I just hope it doesn’t cost too much to repair the southern exterior walls of my third-floor dormers!
Without scaffolding, it’s going to be difficult.
Looks great! Appears that you in the end are able to salvage a lot of the originals- I have used the flip over trick myself- a 1923 craftsman I restored many years ago had all of its original door jambs that had been beat to hell and hacked by multiple generations of hinges and knobs (doors were long gone) so I simply flipped them over and got to keep the original old growth Douglass fir! I’ve also been known to raid the backside of closet door frames in my 30’s and 40’s houses when I need to replace or add trim to a new opening. It matches exactly and the inside of the closet gets the “close enough” replacement trim!
About that faux post, I have recreated a wood grain look using a brush and gel stain. I received a lot of compliments. Never tried the roller. You have a good eye for wood and color I’m sure you could do it. If it doesn’t look good you can start over. 🙂
I was helping shingle my sister-in-laws house a few years ago and her carpenter uncle would fix the level of the shingle bottoms and then tack a long piece of board in place. It kept the shingles level, and since we were using various width shingles we could lay out several to help keep them ‘random’. It worked much better than my previous attempts on my parent’s house (some of those rows had a pronounced sway…).
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