Inching Along. Unhappily
Above the curved windows are:
- Pairs of wood brackets needing attention.
- Curved stamped-tin panels needing attention. But these are hard to access because they are tucked behind the wood brackets.
- Triangles of bead-board ceiling also tucked behind the wood brackets and also needing attention. These are really hard to reach and are CAKED with paint.
In short, these very small areas above the two curved windows are a friggin’ ton of work. A ton of not fun work.
The stamped-tin panels and the petite bead-board ceilings were installed before the wood brackets. Restoring the panels and the bead-board would be effortless if the brackets could be removed. But the brackets don’t want to be removed. Damn brackets.

I was able to glop paint stripper on the curved stamped-tin panels and pretty much get them back to bare metal. This would have been SO much easier without the wood brackets in the way.

The triangle bead-board ceilings tucked behind the damn wood brackets. Quite beautiful, or so I imagine under the century of caked-on paint. I have been chipping away at this horror, all suited up and with face mask on. Unhappily chipping away. And trying to fully reach into the tight ends? ARGH!!!!!!!!

Back in January I did a post about discovering that the west-most bracket was rotted out at one end. The brackets comprise four layers of wood. Yesterday I wondered: Could I remove at least the outer-most layer?

Why…yes. Yes I could! I will replace the rotted end, which took 123-years to rot, with a new piece made out of pressure-treated lumber. This should prevent the same rot from happening again, and I certainly hope that, in the year 2140, the owners of the Cross House thank me when they come across the same bracket in near-mint condition.

Today, I focused on the upper half of the west curved window, and got it scraped and sanded and primed and painted. Tomorrow I will fill the holes, and do a final touch-up. I will also re-install the curved stained-glass panel! Whoee!!!!!!!
I enjoy working on the house.
But I am not enjoying these small areas of hard-to-access complicated geometry.
And there are two MORE such areas on the south side of the house.
Damn.
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Stupid question: can you sand blast in those hard-to-reach areas?
Yes.
But I would not.
Sand-blasting would scar the wood, and possibly destroy the tin.
Ah OK. That makes sense!
How about using a gentler basting media? I have used baking soda to ‘sand’ blast automotive engine components, it doesn’t mark aluminum. Or corn flakes can be used.
I sure wouldn’t want to see any damage occur, but there might be an easier way.
Just thinkin’…..
Bless your Heart Ross! Hang in there – no pun.
“But I am not enjoying these small areas of hard-to-access complicated geometry.”
But once you have finished with all the tedium involved, you can take satisfaction in knowing you did it right. So far, it looks great.
Resonant & reliably restorative Ross reawakening wondrous details & wreaking havoc on geometrically challenging & remarkable pieces of history!!!! This post is evocative if you at your finest restoration masterpiece & is so edifying to behold! I was just thinking about the blog & hoping & praying for a new post!! What fun! It made me smile about all the imagery you conjured. Magic!
This sentence structure/wording made me laugh:
“Resonant & reliably restorative Ross reawakening wondrous details & wreaking havoc on geometrically challenging & remarkable pieces of history!!!!”
Tra-la-la!! Love to conjure up fun things to post & cheer you up when copious and tedious detailing ensues!!! So glad to make you smile while in the midst of a monolithic endeavor!!!
Sounds like quite a slog, from caked to crisp! May herculean labor produce proportional satisfaction (from here it sure does!).
I am always amazed at the beautiful smooth finish on your restored, painted finishes. Beautiful Ross, just beautiful.
I do love a smooth finish!
Companies that do “sand” blasting without sand,they use small soft beads of some kind I think. I think it’s gentle enough to even remove paint on a car without piting or destroying the metal.
Wait too…what house is this and where is it?
Ok…looked it up your in Emporia doing that restore. Do you live in Wichita? Love those curved windows,reminds me of that home just a bit NE of that McDonalds at about Broadway and what 9th/10th here in Wichita. I worked in that home too probably around 1990/91.
Do you know what the history is on that one Ross? Huge curved windows downstairs and smaller ones in the br up front.
I guess taking the brackets off entirely to strip everything would risk damaging them too much?
Wow. I never saw the lovely carved detail in the angle of the bracket before. The details on this house are amazing. The Cross House is so fortunate to have you as its caretaker.
I’m hoping the rest of the work is bat-free.
I have always heard that paint on new pressure-treated wood would not stand up and may damage the new wood. Myth?
I would think it would have to dry for weeks or months to be able to paint because of the chemicals drawn into the wood when it’s treated using pressure. Then it would definetly need a really GOOD primer.
Thanks, David.
Pressure-treated wood does have a tendency to warp and twist, but only in long lengths. A short piece such as that which Ross used for his bracket should do just fine. Ross, your attention to detail is heartwarming.
Corn Flakes???? May I ask how??
Ross, your youngest follower is 7 years old. She’s been following you forever…honest. As my Marla would say: “but you did it, Ross!”
Using corn flakes is the same as any other fine blasting material. Crush it up and put it in the hopper.
There’s lots of different media available for blasting. One needs to choose a material that will strip paint, but not do any damage to the surface below.
Forgot to add some info….
I learn so much from all of you who research this assiduously. Corn flakes seems like a good idea– not so rough but just enough gentle abrasiveness. The info was very interesting Melody. You are an oracle.